Saturday, March 19, 2016

Montreal Travel Guide

Montreal  is the metropolis of the province of Quebec. Quebec City is the political capital but Montreal is the cultural and economic capital of Quebec and the main entry point to the province. The second largest city in Canada, it is a city rich in culture and history and a well-deserved reputation as one of the liveliest cities in North America. Montreal is the second-largest French-speaking (as a mother language) city in the world, behind Paris. The population of Montreal is about 1.9 million, with 4 million in the metro area. Montreal is sometimes referred to as The Paris of Canada.

Districts

Central Montreal

Montreal boroughs
Ville-Marie borough
Montreal is composed of 19 large boroughs. The most important one in central Montreal for visitors is Ville-Marie, which is further subdivided into neighbourhoods. From West to East, some of its neighbourhoods include:

Downtown — Skyscrapers, shopping, museums, McGill and Concordia universities, and the Parc du Mont-Royal.

Old Montreal — The historic and (dare we say it) quaint riverfront Old Town and Old Port.

Chinatown — The third largest in Canada, filled with numerous restaurants and shops.

Quartier Latin-Le Village — Restaurants, boutiques, cafes, pubs near UQAM in the Quartier Latin, gay bars and clubs in Le Village, and the working class neighbourhood of Sainte-Marie.

Parc Jean-Drapeau — The islands of Île Sainte-Helene and Île Notre-Dame and the Montreal Casino.

Plateau Mont-Royal district

The Plateau — A large, trendy district north of downtown and east of Parc du Mont-Royal noted for its quaint architecture, diverse mixture of cultures and languages, parks, music venues, theaters, restaurants, pedestrian streets, and the location of many summer festivals. Its attractions include Parc Lafontaine, the Main (Saint Laurent Blvd) with its many hotspots, St-Denis and Mont-Royal for shopping, eating and drinking. The Plateau includes several distinct neighbourhoods, including Mile End.

Mile End — The legendary Fairmount and St. Viateur bagel shops, Dieu du Ciel brewery, trendy restaurants and cafés, bookstores, thrift shops, espresso and soccer bars, the Rialto Theatre, St Michael and St. Andrew's church, boutiques and hipsters.

Other Montreal districts and Montreal Island towns

Rosemont–La Petite-Patrie — Little Italy and Rosemont, home to Italian, Vietnamese, and Latino communities, as well as the Jean-Talon market, one of Montreal's largest, most popular, and liveliest open-air markets. The section of St-Laurent Boulevard that runs through this borough has seen a recent (2015) resurgence in new restaurants and bars.

Westmount–Notre-Dame-de-Grâce — Westmount is legally a separate town from Montreal and is mostly residential, although it has a lively section of Sherbrooke Street and Victoria Avenue as its commercial hub. Greene Avenue further east is another tony commercial area. Notre-Dame-de-Grâce (NDG) is a diverse neighbourhood that includes leafy residential streets, a long commercial section of Sherbrooke West, gentrified Monkland Avenue, the Saint-Jacques strip, and the new MUHC hospital at Vendôme metro station.

Hochelaga-Maisonneuve — the "Espace pour la Vie" includes the Olympic Park, Botanical Gardens, Biodome and the Planetarium.

Côte-des-Neiges — Multicultural neighbourhood northwest of the mountain. NDG and Côte-des-Neiges are part of one large borough but have quite different vibes. Côte-des-Neiges is a vibrant street that borders on the academic world of the Université de Montréal and the Hautes Études Commerciales on one side, and the hospitals (St. Mary's and the Jewish General) on the other. Queen Mary Road is another commercial street of note.

Outremont — Upscale, francophone neighbourhood noted for its architecture, boutiques and restaurants, and its flourishing Hasidic community.

South West — Including the Lachine canal, Atwater Market (a must!), St. Henri, and the emerging culinary hot-spot, Little Burgundy.

Villeray/Parc-Extension – Parc Extension, one of Canada's most ethnically diverse neighbourhoods, is noted for its vibrant South Asian community and its family-run restaurants, while to the east, beyond Jarry Park and north of Little Italy, lies Villeray, mostly residential, but also home to a range of cafes and restaurants.


Situated on an island in the St. Lawrence River at the historically highest navigable point, Montreal has been a strategic location since before the arrival of Europeans in Canada. A thriving St.Lawrence Iroquoian town called Hochelaga was on the site of present-day Montreal when explorer Jacques Cartier first visited in 1535. A hundred years later, in 1642, the tiny town of Ville-Marie was founded as a Sulpician mission by Paul Chomedey, sieur de Maisonneuve. It soon became a centre of the fur trade. After its capture by the English in 1762, Montreal remained (until the 1970s) the most important city in Canada and was briefly capital of the province in the 1840s.

Prohibition on sales of alcohol in the United States during the 1920s and 1930s made Montreal a mecca for cross-border fun seekers from nearby New England and New York. The city built up a seedy, yet playful, industry in alcohol, burlesque, and other vices. In the 1960s, an urban renewal drive centred around Expo 67. The World's Fair in Montreal brought a subway system and a number of attractive urban parks and is considered to be one of the most successful World Fairs. Over 50 million visitors gathered to Montreal during this memorable summer. The 1976 Olympics left a strikingly idiosyncratic stadium and many other urban improvements.


St Lawrence river gateway
The opening of the Saint Lawrence Seaway in 1959, though much lauded as an economic boom, spelled the beginning of the end for Montreal's economic dominance in Canada. Once the transition point between western railroads and eastern sea carriers, Montreal watched helplessly as some of this business moved farther west, up the now navigable Seaway, to ports in Ontario and on Lake Superior. The Quebec Sovereignty movement, which began to pick up steam in the 1960s, further chilled the atmosphere for Canada-wide businesses, many of which moved their headquarters to Toronto.
Following an economic depression in the 1980s and 1990s, Montreal became more secure in its place in North America and the world. It remains a centre of culture, arts, computer technology, aerospace, the biotech industry, and media for all of Canada.

Orientation
It has been said that Montréal is the only city in the world where the sun "rises in the south."
Montrealers use an unconventional compass, using the river and the mountain as cardinal points. When you are downtown, the St Lawrence River is “south” and Mount Royal is “north”; making the West Island and the East End correct in both their names and orientations. The dividing line between "east" and "west" downtown is the boulevard Saint-Laurent. In downtown, streets slope up "north" toward Mount Royal. This local compass tends to confuse visitors because the “East” End is really to the north and the “West” Island is to the south, and the St Lawrence River runs almost northeast-southwest at this location.

Most local maps use this convention as do the highways around the city. For example, Autoroute 15 north actually runs northwest and Autoroute 40 east runs northeast.

To underscore this fact, a Montreal map will show that the "south end" of Victoria Bridge is in fact further north than the "north end".


Gay Montreal
Montreal is an extremely inviting destination for gay and lesbian tourists. Canada's contributions to gay rights have recently become widely known, but Quebec was the first province in Canada to pass a non-discrimination law for sexual orientation and to provide same-sex civil unions (although Toronto was the first municipality in Canada to do so). Same-sex marriage is legal in Quebec (neither residency nor citizenship are required for a marriage license, but there is a three-week waiting period after you receive the licence) as well as in the rest of Canada. Canadian and Quebec immigration law allow residents to sponsor their same-sex partners or spouses.

Montreal itself is a very safe, open, and inviting city. The métro station in the Gay Village, Beaudry, is marked with rainbow pillars. Montreal's pride celebration, Divers/Cité(last week of July, first week of August) is the second-largest in Canada after Toronto's.


Climate
Climate Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Daily highs (°C) -5 -4 2 11 19 24 27 25 19 12 5 -2
Nightly lows (°C) -12 -11 -5 3 10 15 18 17 12 6 0 -9
Precipitation (mm) 74 71 80 77 87 88 106 101 101 84 94 102
See the Montreal 7 day forecast at Environment Canada
The climate of Montreal is a true humid continental climate with 4 distinct seasons. The city has warm, to occasional hot & humid summers, generally mild spring and autumn, and often very cold & snowy winters. Montreal gets over 2,000 hours of sunshine annually. Precipitation is moderate throughout the year, with around 2 meters of snow per season.



By metro or bus
Montreal is home to one of the three public subway/metro systems in Canada, the others found in Vancouver and Toronto. The public transit system, run by Société de transport de Montréal (STM) , is safe, efficient, and is overall pleasant to use. Tickets have been replaced by cards with magnetic stripe containing one trip, called an à la carte ticket. These are valid for one trip (including unlimited transfers in the same way for 120 min) on the metro and buses, costing $3.25 each (exact fare in coins is required on the buses but not on the metro) but are also available for less when you purchase 2 for $6.00 either from the metro agent, the automatic fare vending machine located in metro stations, or an authorized seller.

Unlike some subway systems you do not need the fare card to exit, but you can use the card to transfer to a bus, and you can be asked at any time by a transit cop to produce the valid fare card. So don't throw it away while you're still in the transit system or you can be fined.

Note that Montreal metro stations and train cars lack air conditioning, the Metro can sometimes get uncomfortably hot, in every season. It does however still exist as the best transport option in the city. The train cars are all old (original rolling stock) and will be replaced over several years starting in 2016.

Announcements are in French only as is the vast majority of signage. In addition, Montreal transit workers are not obliged to speak in any language other than French (with the exception of customer service representatives). While most transit workers are happy to speak to you in English and are generally friendly to visitors, it is possible that a question in English might be met with sign language or dead silence. It never hurts to begin a conversation with "Bonjour, est-ce que vous parlez anglais?" The customer service counter at Berri-Uqam (on the Orange, Yellow, and Green lines) have English-speaking staff. In addition, airport staff are fully bilingual.

When departing from metro stations in Laval and Longueuil, tickets and passes bought in Montreal can't be used. You have to pay a different fare inbound from those stations.

If you are using cash to pay your fare on the bus, it is important to have the exact fare since the driver does not give change; you will receive an à la carte ticket, which is your proof of payment and your transfer.

Passes are available which offer unlimited travel on the bus and metro for periods of 24-hours ($10) or three days ($18) and are well worth it to avoid fumbling for change, checking transfer times and restrictions, and worrying about getting off at the wrong stop and having to repay. There are also evening passes valid from 6:00 PM to 5:00 AM ($5) and weekend passes valid from 6:00 PM Friday to 5:00 AM Monday ($13). As with all fares, they are available everywhere there is an OPUS machine. Weekly ($24.50, week is from Monday to Sunday) and monthly ($82) passes as well as 10-trip fares ($25.50) are also available; unlike one-day and three-day passes, these fares must be loaded onto an OPUS card (see below) and are not available in paper ticket form. Only students (25 years and under) studying at a recognized academic institution in Montréal or seniors (65 and over) may benefit from reduced fares, and a special OPUS card must be obtained from the STM.

The OPUS card is a smart card with a chip that contains your fare and transfer information. The OPUS card can be purchased at all metro stations for $6.

OPUS cards can be refilled and paper fares can be purchased at metro stations using the automated machines or at the ticket booth (cash only). They can also be purchased from other authorized sellers. A list of sellers is here. 

Fare prices increase at the start of every year (although the expected increase for 2016 has been delayed). The current fare grid can be found here. 

The STM website offers an online trip-planner service on their home page and their smartphone app. Trip planning can also be done using Google Maps. Free bus and Metro system maps are available from the ticket booth at most metro stations. These are useful to find where you are on the island.

At each subway station, directions are not indicated by compass directions, such as westbound or eastbound. Instead, trains go in the direction of a subway line's terminus. The green line runs from Angrignon in the west to Honoré-Beaugrand in the east. If you were to travel eastbound, for example, you would look for Honoré-Beaugrand on the platform. If you were to travel westbound, you would look for Angrignon. There are four interchange stations at which commuters can change subway lines without extra charge: Snowdon (blue/orange), Lionel-Groulx (orange/green), Berri-UQAM (green/yellow/orange), and Jean-Talon (orange/blue).

Bicycles are permitted aboard metro trains outside of the rush hours such as: 10:00am to 3:00pm and 7:00pm to end of service on weekdays and all day Saturdays, Sundays, and legal holidays. Bikes are only allowed in the lead car of the train up to a maximum of 6. STM staff may deny bikes aboard the metro for safety reasons such as special events that might generate a high level of ridership. Lists of such events are posted on the STM website and at the entrances to metro. During festival season in Montreal, bikes are seldom allowed at all.

Bike riding inside stations or the Underground City is strictly prohibited.


By train
Montreal has a commuter train system run by the Agence métropolitaine de transport (AMT)  with termini at the Montreal Central Station (Gare Central) and at Lucien-L'Allier (both are accessible from the metro). Commuter trains are handy for getting to suburbs and neighbouring towns.

Commuter train stations are divided into eight zones that radiate out from downtown. Stations have automated machines from which you must purchase a ticket appropriate to the zones of the station you are traveling to or from, whichever is farther (for example, a trip from Zone 4 to Zone 3 or vice versa would require a Zone 4 ticket). In addition to the zone number, there are two types of fares: TRAIN fares (valid on commuter trains only) and TRAM fares (also valid on buses and the metro within the zone purchased). A prepurchased ticket card (SOLO) must be validated at the card scanners at the entrance to the platform. You can also purchase a six-trip ticket. As with the bus and metro, monthly passes require an OPUS card and reduced fares for students and seniors require a special OPUS card.

There are no ticket machines on the train and ticket inspections are random. Incorrect tickets sometimes go unnoticed because inspectors check only occasionally. However, it is best to avoid taking chances as if the ticket is not valid, the customer can get a fine of $400. Note that the ticket machines should now all be bilingual in English and French. The two downtown stations have staffed ticket booths Monday to Friday, but not in the evenings. Other stations may also have booths but generally only during either the morning or afternoon rush hour.

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